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For ipod download CrystalDiskMark1/28/2024 ![]() ![]() Needed a small fold when reassembling but nothing that will cause it harm. New drive held in place underneath with a small sticky pad, also fitted a new longer lead (maybe a bit too long) to replace the old duff one. New and old side by side, the Intel and adapter are slightly higher at 6.5mm than the 5mm drive but it fitted fine Macrium Reflect is pretty awesome, it's free, it works with modern stuff like USB 3.0 and actually images in decent time unlike some of the alternatives I used the same setup with the new drive to re-image and make sure everything worked before putting it back together My partially assembled lash up to image the old drive and run the benchmark. You should now find the board lifts out, you can remove the ethernet port as I have done if you wish toįlip the board over and you can see the drive plus the screw that holds the cage inĪs you can see the dent in the cable around the 94V lettering is why mine stops working, the previous owner had dropped it and managed to damage the cable. Once done remove the three screws show as well Watch for the little metal bits where the arrows are, they like to fall out when your not looking. If something feels stuck check all screws are removed. The top half pulls away from the lower, start at the back and slowly pry the top from the bottom, if everything is ok it should just come apart. You will need to remove these and put the module aside If you have a TV module it's in the top left and has a small zif cable and the two antenna connected to it. Remove all the screws and connectors shown, the screen connectors in the top right just need a gentle tug upwards. Remove the screen hinge and keyboard screws, make sure the screen does not flop over and break any cablesįlip up the latches for the keyboard and touchpad zif cables, be gentle with the connectors If it will not come away make sure all the screws have been removed from underneath shown in the above pictures Remove the SO-DIMM and Pen (and Battery if you have not done so)įlip back the right way and angle the screen as shown, the top plate at the rear will lift off with gentle pressure. The Kohjinsha SC3, the lump on the right side is my USB 3.0 cardįirstly remove the flap in the center, I just pulled it up with using my finger nailįlip the unit over and remove all the screws marked by the arrows, make sure they don't get lost Follow the captions in each image paying attention to the green arrows and you should be fine. I ditched the TV module ages ago as it cannot receive UK DVB signals and I never had the GPS or Bluetooth modules so you will find in places that things may look different to yours. ![]() Taking apart one of these is not difficult just fiddly due to it's size. The Intel 310 SSD can achieve much higher reads which shows the limit of the SC3's chipset, we also pretty much hit the write speed limit of the drive so I'm happy overall. Lets look at the interesting bit first, the original drive as you can see is just painfully slow, 1.8" drives were never really meant for desktop OS use, more iPods and integrated applications. I made a follow up post to this after the Intel mSATA SSD died, check it out here: Kohjinsha SC3 SSD: Not all mSATA's are equal Benchmarks: This is a Softpedia link as Realtek stopped offering direct drivers a while ago This is a Softpedia link as Synaptics stopped offering direct drivers late 2017 PenMount Windows Universal Driver V2.4.0.306(WHQL).To make re-installing Windows a bit easier I've brought the links I supplied in the comments up here and fixed any that were broken. I have taken a few pics to help show how to wrangle one of these apart and a couple of before and after benchmarks using CrystalDiskMark Update March 2023, Kohjinsha SC3 Drivers: I could of bought a Kingspec or Runcore Zif PATA SSD but they seemed either very pricey or not much faster than the drive I was replacing, In the end I threw an 80GB Intel 310 mSATA SSD together with a mSATA to ZIF adapter and a new zif cable (look for Toshiba suitable ones, mine was 15cm long.) The upside is the mSATA drive would ensure the chipset on the SC3 is the limiting factor. Recently it failed again and being fed up with having to dismantle the unit every few months and fed up with the painfully slow speed of it's Toshiba MK6028GAL 1.8" drive I decided to treat it to a SSD upgrade and replace that pesky cable. A bodge in the form of a bit of card wedged underneath the cable at the right point fixed the issue (as long as you never knocked it too hard) and all was well. A few years back due to a lucky bit of eBay-ing I managed to acquire a Kohjinsha SC3 for £50 with a 'boot drive error' After much faffing around it turned out the data cable was damaged and therefore the drive was not recognised. ![]()
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